Britomart

During my last year of architecture school, I used to always walk down to Britomart. It became a place of familiarity as I explored its 'new' form. In spite of the hipster/fashionista/high end vibe of the present, Britomart used to be a backend piece of the CBD. For some, it was the general vicinity of the Oriental Markets, an impression that floats in my childhood memories. For more recent visitors, back a few years Britomart was the site of a lot of carparking.

Today I won't talk so much about the range of eateries and shops around the Britomart Precinct as they have been reviewed and talked about ad infinitum. I focus on the unassuming, but bulk-consuming Westpac Building.

The building lies on the east side of Takutai Square, now a popular seating and events spot. An atrium cuts through the building from the main axis of Britomart, from the train station, through 'pop up' shops to the square.

Last year, I witnessed a transformation of this usually mediocre space into a full blown catwalk, descending from the stair case from the office blocks on either side. It was a range of shows put together for Britomart Fashion Sessions, recruiting most of the labels displayed in the precinct, such as Trelise Cooper, Juliette Hogan, Taylor and Ted Baker.

What I most enjoyed about this was that it was a publicity event that was a collaborative act: the sharing of the space and the prep areas (which no doubt belong to the large corporates that the building houses), the makeup by MAC, the group shows, the City Farmer's Market and bursting-to-full goodie bags. It is really a credit to the organisers for making the whole precinct buzz with their collective presence.

Streetwear show - Timberland, Onitsuka Tiger, Coucou, Neuw Storeroom, Federation

Taylor, Made and Ted Baker

AW2013

It's right in the middle of Architecture Week 2013 and numerous events have been happening in Auckland and, I understand, across the country. The main event is the exhibition at Silo Park (open 9am to 6pm all week and weekend), and the fun opening night that went with it. Even though the weather has been Civil Defence warning worthy in some places, there was a great turnout to the lunchtime panel discussions and last night's discussion at Jasmax.

The exhibition shows a wide range of work including non-architectural work by architectural graduates. As good as Urbis Design Day.

Is Architecture Week merely an inward-looking industry event? It happens every year and is open to all. Yet you don't see the public engaging with architecture and more specifically, architectural design. It doesn't get the attention that other creative industries receive - the international film festivals, art exhibitions, music events and even Taste (I learned today it involves 18 countries worldwide). What is it about Kiwi culture that seems to disregard architecture as a creative profession that is worth getting to know?

Anyone can say this is a pretty model of a building, but very few in the public audience could point out what's good and bad about the design.

Having been to Open House in London and Dublin, I can see how great architectural design can be appreciated by the public who come in swarms to see different buildings and hear about their conception. Open House is an international programme that allows the public to visit buildings that are usually not open to the public. Our version of this? The budding AAA tours that happen on a sporadic basis. If you're not in the architecture industry, you probably didn't even know we have an Auckland Architecture Association. Or not to mention the elusive New Zealand Institute of Architects.

The Longroom at Trinity College Dublin. A huge line of people waiting to be toured around the immaculately designed educational facility. It is completely free. No such large scale event like this in New Zealand.

There are many architects who believe the public do not need to understand or engage with architecture. In some way, people cannot avoid architecture so are already 'engaging', however, there is a lot more that needs to be done in terms of education and a shift in ideology toward architecture to ensure the survival of the profession and good design in our city.

Architecture Week is open for all - this year it is themed Architecture + Women and touch on issues of equality and equity. Do check out their programme and visit some of the events. Next weekend I will be helping with a workshop at Silo Park that lets the public get hands on with discussing housing issues. 

I managed to get onto on of the panels through Kathy Waghorn's Fluid City project, community-engaging architectural installations.

NZFW6

Not as immersed in NZ Fashion Week as I was last year, but I'll be off to a few NZFW 2013 shows just to keep the creative mind sharp while writing a thesis.

Ticket to the show

The other night I got tickets to the Stolen Girlfriends Club show and as usual (rebelliously) they had an off-site show. It was quite different to shooting last year's show (or maybe it was because I was in the audience as opposed to the photographer's stand) but just as impressive. The style of the clothes were inspired by 'Dirty Magic' so think dark, grungy street style and some avant garde evening wear. It's great to see a mix of male and female clothing in a show, too.

A giant projection on the facade of the building.

Worm

More correctly an aquatic caddis fly larvae, artist Hubert Dupprat sets up these insects to build their cocoon with materials of his choosing. The larva, in the absence of gravel, sand and twigs that is their norm, start decorating their silk cocoons with rather more precious materials: gold, semi-precious metals, pearls, gems...

Somehow the insects go about this with a sort of pattern making - some might call it "aesthetic" but for this little larvae who probably just wants to survive the ordeal, it's probably primal instinct. Strange but these sculptures are fascinatingly similar to contemporary jewellery. Minus the legs and little caddis worm head.

Something about it seems natural but the imprint of human intervention is so surely apparent. The poor creatures are also exhibited in little aquariums, showing the temporary results of a more long term experiment. From each lifecycle to another, a new insect may choose a previously made case and expand/rework it.

For more about The Wonderful Caddis Worm: Sculptural Work in Collaboration with Trichoptera see Leonardo Online or read an interview with the artist himself. 

Humans

Over the last while a controversy over street photos taken by Humans of New York came to light where the renown fashion label DKNY used the a bunch of photos in their Thailand shop front without credit or payment for the right to use the photos. You can read a good article about it on the Wall Street Journal.

Retaliating with a Facebook post demanding DKNY to own up to its mistake and donate the proceeds to a local Brooklyn charity, DKNY did eventually own up, saying it was a mistake and that they will go ahead with paying the charity. I thought it was all done and dusted - a pretty good outcome to a pretty bad situation on all sides. A global label like DKNY having a lapse in communication with an Asian branch? Understandable.

But it didn't stop. A stinging vindictiveness from the supporters of Humans of New York and from those standing up for intellectual property rights for creative products (which in itself is a terribly controversial issue with fuzzy boundaries and awkward skirmishes in price battles such as the one in this example). Humans of New York happened to take the initiative this time and got a compromise but still DKNY is still getting trashed post-apology. Perhaps it's the easiness of just pressing a 'like' button, the epitome of a 21st century cliché, or the convenience of reading half a sentence on a very long (partially hidden) post and sharing a scathing comment.

In the creative industries, it's not always clear cut but more importantly, the field is malleable and open to new collaborations. There are many ways to go about crediting/PR and I think this example is a particularly creative example of standing up for one's creative property rights. But let's remember that we are also human and prone to mistakes.

To see the raging comments about the issue (which toss between different views), see the Facebook post that started it all.

Devoid

Fashion photography is an intense portrayal of finely detailed creative products. With so much happening behind the scenes - stylists, hair, make up, the model - it can often seem overworked or devoid of any meaningful content (usually with an overdose of narcissism or airy commercialism).

Which is what I found amazing about the stylised photography of Formento & Formento. Cinematic images try to tell a story and feel almost surreal, as if something from a Dali painting might wistfully appear. I like how F&F don't mind having underexposed areas - too often is an image ruined by even exposure which can be informatively boring. It is with these sets, combined with the clothes and styling, that the photos tell a story, often not from our present.

The photos are another sort of 'devoid', settings that could equally be bustling with people are stripped down to the one expressionate model. These buildings, the decor, the emptiness sits there, mingling with the subject.

Lumas London will be featuring a show of Formento & Formento: on the Road Again from February 20 to March 10 so if you're around London, go check it out. Breathtaking drama in photography and fashion combined can make you really think beyond the simple frame that is presented.

Thanks Lucire's article for the heads up. They also have a brilliant F+F Tumblr account. Also see a previous post on drama in photography in Philip-Lorca diCorcia's work.

Exposure2

It has been more than a month since I was shooting photos at NZFW. I've finally uploaded the pics onto the web so check them out! I'd love to know what you think.

See them up on my Google+ album (there is also a slideshow mode).

NZFW5

To conclude Fashion Week, Sunday was a strange mix of last minute activity and packing up. A bit of fresh stock for the Designer Sale and the last lot of weekend shows. We shot the last of the Designer Selection Shows (been to 5 of them, and all exactly the same!) and tried to get a better angle. Some of us even got a few goodie bags for our efforts.

Once again, the shows were more about entertainment than hard fashion:

Moochi

A medium calibre fashion label, Moochi launched their new brand with this show. A live performance by singer Tali opened the show with high spirits and an explanation of their new kiss-kiss logo.

Popping colours and prints really stood out in this collection. Moochi is also the more public-friendly and accessible brands there too which is why they were put in the weekend.

Servilles Hair Show

Starting off with a powerful taiko drumming performance, the rest of the show was dominated by large costumey hair pieces and colourful bob cuts. I was expecting a lot of sculptural hair work which would show off Servilles' skill but it wasn't really about that. I don't really know what it was about other than being a dramatic statement show.

And that's the last of my NZFW posts! I hope you liked them. I certainly enjoyed sharing this rare opportunity to go to the all the shows and whatnot. It was so much fun hanging out with the other photographers and running around trying to get the best shots (I've never taken this many photos in one go in my whole life). Maybe next year...

NZFW4

The end of NZ Fashion Week brought some more unique shows and the beginning of the NZ Fashion Weekend, which is the public friendly segment of the event. Tomorrow is the last day of it all!

Phoenix Cosmetics - Truly Outrageous

A true spectacle, this show was less about the clothes/costumes and more about the use of colour. Such a fun and vibrant show with lots of dance, Go Girls's Brownyn Turei being a mother goose, and several themes of really outrageous styling. This was also put on for the public as a part of Fashion Weekend, a bit of light hearted entertainment and fashion.

Miromoda Showcase

I was looking forward to this show as it promised real innovation and the cream of the crop in the Miromoda Competition that happened in Wellington a few months ago. And it delivered.

A friend of mine couldn't stop going on about Monique Lynch's pieces which featured composed panels of material (as yet unidentified), draped effortlessly but constructed with precision. 

It also featured other designers from Miromoda, including DMONIC INTENT who featured in the New Gen Show and the Designer Selection Showcase.

Westpac Red Collection

We had no idea what was happening for this show, so we all buggered off on a long break to come back to the venue metamorphosed into a swanky and decadent formal event. Abruptly underdressed, we all still enjoyed ourselves and shot pics of the live chamber group, live statues (poor buggers), and the suited up crowd.

Needless to say there was a LOT of bubbles being handed out. It's not Fashion Week without a flute of bubbles! The show was alright, a bit unfocussed in my opinion.

Les Mills Show

Although a bit skeptical about this show, I kind of felt it was going to be a goodie since Les Mills often overdelivers in terms of enthusiasm for exercise (read 'sore muscles'). The show was PACKED with energy, with their fittest people in the most fashionable of exercise wear.

Lots of dancing, mixed with samples of their classes, it was really stunning! It even had a yoga/pilates/tai chi segment which was quite elegant.

KMS California Hair Seminar

Interesting little seminar on styling hair with KMS products without the need of a pricey hair stylist. Quite funny, more informative than anything. 

It's really good how Fashion Weekend is formatted in a way that is accessible, entertaining and useful for the public - let's face it, most of the Fashion Week fashionista's have hair styling down pat and don't need a seminar. There was also a Samsung Experience Truck which we took some fun photos in. I was fascinated by the architectural detailing in the truck - a strange reminder that life as an architecture student resumes next week!